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Best Sunday Supper

NONNA
520 Columbus Ave.
212-579-3194

The Sunday-night "Sopranos Supper" was our favorite thing about Merge, the defunct Greenwich Village restaurant whose chef, Sam DeMarco, has revived the Italian-American fixed-price meal at Nonna, the latest incarnation of a mutable Upper West Side restaurant. Unless you grew up Italian with a grandma who dedicated Sundays to stirring gravy and stuffing relatives, Nonna's $19 feast might seem excessive. The relentless red-sauce attack starts with steamy mozzarella-stuffed arancini and moves on to a crisp Caesar salad served family-style, succulent eggplant involtini, and the pièces de résistance: "Sunday sauce" studded with Italian sausages, tasty meatballs, and hunks of braciole, beside a bowl of al dente rigatoni that seems, at that point in the meal, fairly bottomless. But don't surrender yet. The best is yet to come: a fluffy, fragrant amaretto-spiked zeppole and honey to dip it in.

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