Baba au Rhum Monte Carlo style at Alain Ducasse.   (Photo: Kenneth Chen)

Old-World Classic
Baba au Rhum Monte Carlo Style at ALAIN DUCASSE
55 W. 58th St.
212-265-7300

With the grand old French desserts in slow decline, sample this great Baroque classic while you still can.

New-World Classic
Dolce Federico at ABBOCCATO
136 W. 55th St.
212-265-4000

This elegant little tea sandwich is made with toasted panettone, hazelnuts, and layers of candied oranges, all doused with a rich, orange- scented chocolate sauce.

New-World Comfort
Coffee and Doughnuts at PER SE
10 Columbus Cir.
212-823-9335

Thomas Keller’s “doughnuts” are light, little balloons dusted with cinnamon. The “coffee” is the richest semifreddo you’ve ever had, spiked with cappuccino.

Asian Fusion
Thai Jewels at SPICE MARKET
403 W. 13th St.
212-675-2322

Jean-Georges Vongerichten has done what many of us thought was impossible. He’s produced an Asian dessert that actually tastes good.

Cutting Edge
Carrot Ravioli at WD-50
50 Clinton St.
212-477-2900

Pastry chef Sam Mason comes up with all sorts of bizarre and artful combinations. This is perhaps the most bizarre, and the most tasty.

Simple Pleasure
Vanilla Cream Puff at BEARD PAPA
2167 Broadway
212-799-3770

Sure, the cream puffs are good. But buy one, then sit and watch the show for a while. The real charm is in the inspired wackiness of this enduring Japanese institution.