Fornino
Michael Ayoub’s new joint opens this week with a wood-burning oven and pizza toppings (garlic, arugula) plucked from the chef’s own garden and greenhouse.
187 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-384-6004

Otto Enoteca Pizzeria
Those pizza pontificators who rushed in and freaked out over Mario Batali’s unconventional griddle-cooked pies got it wrong: One bite of a recent special topped with butternut squash, smoked mozzarella, ricotta, and pancetta is proof of pure pizza genius.
1 Fifth Ave.; 212-995-9559

Totonno’s
A gothic crust, a sloppy splash of sauce, and the sweetest, freshest mozzarella coalesce into pizza perfection. (Unfortunately, the Manhattan branches just don’t have the same mozzarella mojo.)
1524 Neptune Ave., Coney Island, Brooklyn; 718-372-8606

Franny’s
Unsliced, fire-licked, and uncannily light, the stellar pizza here is inspired by Naples and adorned with everything from house-cured meats to parsley pesto.
295 Flatbush Ave., Prospect Heights, Brooklyn; 718-230-0221

Di Fara
The trash cans are overflowing and the fans don’t work, but the regular pies are sublime, the Sicilian even better.
1424 Ave. J, Midwood, Brooklyn; 718-258-1367

Gonzo
Mecca for grilled-pizza lovers. Try the Siciliano with cumin-scented ricotta.
140 W. 13th St.; 212-645-4606

Joe & Pat’s
A thin-crust pie that outshines borough boss Denino’s.
1758 Victory Blvd., Staten Island; 718-981-0887

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: October 25, 2004 issue of New York | Subscribe!