1. Gavroche
As far as French country cooking goes, this rustic faux farmhouse has great culinary DNA.
212 14th St., near Seventh Ave.; 212-647-8553

2. August
August inherits predecessor Cafe Picasso's romantic garden and wood-burning oven.
359 Bleecker St., Near Charles St.; 212-929-4774

3. Paradou
Cozy bistro a vins named after the bucolic Provencal village of Le Paradou.
8 Little West 12th St., near Ninth Ave.; 212-463-8345

4. Bottino
Art-world hotspot in Chelsea West, strategically located near key galleries.
246 Tenth Ave., near 24th St.; 212-206-6766

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Nov 8, 2004 issue of New York | Subscribe!