Aureole's spaghetti alla carbonara. (Photo credit: Kenneth Chen)

Aureole
Some swear a proper carbonara should never be touched by cream. Chef Dante Boccuzzi begs to differ: His ultraluxe version arrives coated in it, with a $75 supplement’s worth of shaved white truffle and an oozing soft poached egg.
34 E. 61st St., nr. Madison Ave.; 212-319-1660

Abboccato
An innovative, fancy-pants carbonara, but a great one, especially for duck lovers: bucatini, duck eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and house-cured duck prosciutto.
136 W. 55th St., nr. Seventh Ave.; 212-265-4000

Otto Enoteca Pizzeria
Following in big sister Lupa’s footsteps, Otto has recently added pasta to the menu, including a spaghetti carbonara made with a double dose of pig—pancetta and prosciutto. We’d expect nothing less from chef-owner Mario Batali.
1 Fifth Ave., at 8th St.; 212-995-9559

Barbuto
When the weather turns frigid, look for Jonathan Waxman’s classic version— spaghetti alla chitarra, eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and guanciale—the pig product of choice for many purists.
775 Washington St., nr. W. 12th St.; 212-924-9700

Prune
One of the simplest and best versions of the dish is served at one of the least likely places, with a palate-humbling torrent of coarsely ground black pepper and not a drop of cream. Brunch only.
54 E. 1st St., nr. First Ave.; 212-677-6221

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Dec 6, 2004 issue of New York | Subscribe!