1. Blue Smoke
Obscenely rich, ultracreamy, like a Stouffer’s version gone to finishing school.
116 E. 27th st., nr. Park Ave. So.; 212-447-7733

2. Westville; Westville East
Not that it needs it, but bacon gives this mac ’n’ cheese extra oomph.
210 W. 10th St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-741-7971
328 E. 14th St., nr. First Ave.; 212-598-9998

3. The Bar @ Etats-Unis
A first-rate traditional version where you wouldn’t expect it—at a sophisticated wine bar.
247 E. 81st St., nr. Second Ave.; 212-396-9928

4. Dumont
This one’s got a lot going for it: white Cheddar, Parmesan, and Gruyère, plus a smattering of lardons.
432 Union Ave., nr. Devoe St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-486-7717

5. Home
They wrote the book on comfort food here; the mac ’n’ cheese is topped with bread crumbs and cooked in a skillet.
20 Cornelia St., nr. W. 4th St.; 212-243-9579

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: January 24, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!