1. Shanghai Pavilion
Order the beggar’s chicken in advance.
1378 Third Ave., nr. 78th St.; 212-585-3388

2. 66
Who but Jean-Georges puts foie gras in a shrimp dumpling?
241 Church St., at Leonard St.; 212-925-0202

3. Grand Sichuan
If you like it hot, delve into Mao’s Home Cooking.
1049 Second Ave., nr. 55th St.; 212-355-5855

4. Spicy & Tasty
The cold station up front is stocked full of native Sichuan flavors—pungent, spicy, and spectacular.
39-07 Prince St., nr. 39th Ave., Flushing; 718-359-1601

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: February 14, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!