1. Pukk
This newest member of the Peep-Highline family’s menu is entirely vegetarian and features faux chicken, faux duck, and faux salmon.
71 First Avenue, nr. 5th St.; 212-253-2741

2. Sripraphai
The undisputed best Thai restaurant in town recently got a long-overdue makeover.

3. Zabb Thai
This Queens newcomer specializes in dishes from the Isaan region of Thailand, highly regarded among Thai-food fanatics.
71-28 Roosevelt Avenue, nr. 72nd St., Jackson Heights; 718-651-4354

4. Kin Khao
Nothing about this venerably cool Soho hangout and its young, politely raucous clientele suggests the spicy, untricky Thai food it serves without fuss.
171 Spring St., nr. Thompson St.; 212-966-3939

5. Ma*ya Hurapan Kitchen
Taweewat Hurapan of Rain fame has annexed the Thai restaurant formerly known as Ma*ya and added his signature Pan-Asian spin to a menu that now extends beyond Bangkok.
234 E. 4th St., nr. Ave. B; 646-313-1987

6. Klong
As industrial chic as the current Thai crop and twice as loud, but to its credit, the creative kitchen doesn’t stint on spice (ubiquitous pink peppercorns included).
7 St. Marks Pl., nr. Third Ave.; 212-505-9955

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: Apr 18, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!