1. Liberty View
The Chinatown-worthy specials menu covers everything from jellyfish to the ever-popular lion’s head.
21 South End Ave., nr. W. Thames St.; 212-786-1888

2. Della Rovere
Tribeca’s an epicenter of lofty Italian restaurants: This one distinguishes itself with a late-night bar-snacks menu and a steakhouse-worthy wine program.
250 W. Broadway, at Beach St.; 212-334-3470

3. Megu
This soaring restaurant specializes in food grilled over charcoal imported from Japan. The staff are adept interpreters of the elaborate menu and won’t steer you wrong.
62 Thomas St., nr. W. Broadway; 212-964-7777

4. Landmarc
Landmarc courts all appetites with a menu that lists goat-cheese profiteroles alongside five cuts of beef and just as many sauces. Plus daily pastas and specials like boudin noir.
179 W. Broadway, nr. Leonard St.; 212-343-3883

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: April 25, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!