1. Counter
Earth mothers will love the vegetarian menu, featuring ramps, fiddlehead ferns, fava beans, and other springy delights ($30 for a three-course brunch).
105 First Ave., nr. 7th St.; 212-982-5870

2. Fleur de Sel
A $52 three-course brunch, or a $72 four-course dinner. Divert “When are you getting married” discussion with “Wonder what the heck the chef’s surprise gift for moms is” guessing game.
5 E. 20th St., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-460-9100

3. Patsy’s
Chef Sal Scognamillo pays tribute to his mom, his late aunt, and his mother-in-law by adding their specialties like chicken Veneziana and zucchini pie to the menu.
236 W. 56th St., nr. Broadway; 212-247-3491

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: May 9, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!