Looking for the Perfect Fish		Taste Testing Six Fishes
		How to Cook & Eat Fish		Telling Good Fish from Bad

Food styling by Stephana Bottom

Skin
A light coating of sea slime, with the consistency of wet snot, says one chef, can help preserve the fish, so don’t be afraid of it.

Eyes
Always buy a fish with the head so you can check the eyes; they should be clear and bulging.

Gills
Ought to be red; anything that looks a little more purple or (gasp) brown is a telltale sign of age.

Scales
If they’re broken, it’s likely a sign of age or having been mishandled.

Flesh
Test the buoyancy by pressing the fish skin firmly—it should spring back: You don’t want to leave a mark.

Smell
The oldest trick. If the fish is cut open, sniff the guts. They ought to smell like the sea; if there’s the slightest whiff of ammonia, forget it.

Related:

• Archive: “Features”
• Table of Contents: Jul 25, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!