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The Devil You Say

The deviled egg—that old fifties-cocktail-party standby—has made a bite-size comeback.

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1. Pegu Club
The yolks are whipped with smoked trout and curry mayo, then topped with slivered almonds; they’re swell with one of this elegant bar’s expertly crafted classic cocktails.
77 W. Houston St., nr. W. Broadway; 212-473-7348

2. Cookshop
A traditional approach, topped with paddlefish roe, perfect for popping into your mouth while you peruse the menu.
156 Tenth Ave., at 20th St.; 212-924-4440

3. Maggie Brown
The chef does a deviled egg du jour here, in permutations like blue cheese and bacon or “dirty martini” (yolks mixed with olives, vodka, and olive juice).
455 Myrtle Ave., nr. Washington St., Clinton hill, Brooklyn; 718-643-7001


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