1. Per Se
First snag a reservation; then worry about a seat near the highly improbable fourth-floor fireplace.
10 Columbus Circle, at 60th St.; 212-823-9335

2. Bayard’s
A financial-district gem with a serious cellar and a direct link to Long Island produce (the chef owns a farm).
1 Hanover Sq., nr. Pearl St.; 212-514-9454

3. Savoy
Despite the recent renovation, Peter Hoffman’s seasonal Soho stalwart is as cozy as ever.
70 Prince St., at Crosby St.; 212-219-8570

4. Keens Steakhouse
Lots of history, an intriguing collection of pipes, and a fine mutton chop.
72 W. 36th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-947-3636

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: Dec 19, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!