1. Katz’s Delicatessen
The pastrami gets all the press, but we’re partial to the thick, garlicky knockwurst, best washed down with a pitcher of the house beer.
205 E. Houston St., at Ludlow St.; 212-254-2246

2. Sarge’s Deli
The staff’s all lifers, the booths are well worn, and the pastrami is house-cured.
548 Third Ave., nr. 37th St.; 212-679-0442

3. Carnegie Deli
Touristy, sure, but the tongue still packs a potent punch, and there’s no place better to satisfy a late-night craving for stuffed derma.
854 Seventh Ave., nr. 55th St.; 212-757-2245

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: January 23, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!