1. Spicy & Tasty
The name says it all at this authentic Sichuan spot. From dan dan noodles to double cooked pork, the complex layers of flavors are a revelation.
39-07 Prince St., nr. 39th Ave., Flushing; 718-359-1601

2. New Yeah Shanghai Deluxe
You’ll be guided by your waiter to the soup dumplings, the de rigueur Shanghai-joint appetizer, but they’re only one example of the kitchen’s dexterity with dough—fried or steamed, stuffed with pork or springy snow-pea greens, the dumplings alone are worth a visit.
65 Bayard St., nr. Mott St.; 212-566-4884

3. Oriental Garden
All the staples of the classic New York Cantonese experience—the standard menus, big round tables set with pink tablecloths, and milky fish tanks—are on display at this superior Chinatown establishment.
14 Elizabeth St., nr. Bayard St.; 212-619-0085

4. Waterfront Int’l Enterprises
This rambunctious new spot packs in the locals with northern-Chinese specialities, pitchers of beer, and complimentary kimchee.
40-09 Prince St., nr. Roosevelt Ave., Flushing; 718-321-1363

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Jan 23, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!