It used to be pickles and pastrami. Now it’s a self-serve olive bar, low-fat organic ice cream, and $7 Belgian ales. Keeping up with the changing necessities of New York life is a tough business. Some owners thrive, some lose.

Part I
Hitting the Expiration Date
An atypical deli owner faces the typical industry struggles—bellmarked Doritos, the DEA—and decides he wants out.

Part II
Cornering the Corner Market
Grace Dancyger introduced branding to the Korean deli—and ended up with an East Village empire.

Part III
Detour Delis
Ten worth going out of your way for.

Related:

• Archive: “Features”
• Table of Contents: October 4, 2004 issue of New York | Subscribe!