Tortellini at Via Emilia.

Lupa
170 Thompson St.
(212-982-5089)
Roman-style osteria beloved for peerless antipasti and pasta.

Crispo
240 W. 14th St.
(212-229-1818)
Frank Crispo’s handiwork tastes even better than it sounds on the menu.

Frank
88 Second Ave.
(212-420-1232)
A cramped kitchen finesses sprightly salads and succulent ragùs.

Max Soha
1274 Amsterdam Ave at 123rd St.
(212-531-2221)
A relaxing red-sauce beacon in Morningside Heights.

Supper
156 E. 2nd St.
(212-477-7600)
Frank’s spiffy spinoff showcases northern-Italian fare and nightly specials.

Via Emilia
240 Park Ave. So.
(212-505-3072)
Tortellini, tortelloni, and some of the best lasagne around.

Locanda Vini & Olii
129 Gates Ave., Brooklyn
(718-622-9202)
A trip to Tuscany without the jet lag, and great Virginia house wine.

---

Other Italian Picks from Our 2003 Cheap Eats Guide:

• Le Zoccole
95 Avenue A
212-260-6660

• Max Café
1262 Amsterdam Ave.
212-531-1210

• Nick's
1814 Second Ave.
212-987-5700

Related:

• Archive: “Cover Story”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: Jul 28, 2003 issue of New York | Subscribe!