Double-crust apple. The quintessential all-American, the kind that, left to cool on windowsills in cartoons, becomes fair game for enterprising hoboes.
80 West Broadway; 212-267-6740; $22.
2. City Bakery
Indian apple. Maury Rubin's brilliant cross between pie and old-fashioned Indian pudding (cinnamon, molasses, apples) has a crisp cornmeal topping and a touch of ginger.
3 West 18th Street; 212-366-1414; $24.
3. Sweet Chef Southern Styles Bakery
Though Amadou Diakite, the Sweet Chef, takes his moniker to extremes with his pecan pie, his sweet potato is unsurpassed -- smooth, balanced, and not too sugary.
122 Hamilton Place, near Broadway; 212-862-5909; $10.
4. Sullivan Street Bakery
Pumpkin crostata. Okay, it's more of a tart than a pie, and there's nothing particularly Italian about Thanksgiving except overindulgence. But this earthy, creamy, perfectly crusted crostata puts the pumpkiny competition to shame.
73 Sullivan Street; 212-334-9435; $18.
5. Little Pie Company
Sour-cream apple-walnut pie. As much a New York classic, if not quite as old-school, as Junior's cheesecake.
424 West 43rd Street; 212-736-4780; $25.