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Where to Eat 2003

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Bonita: You can buy the entire breakfast menu for $80, but save your cash and order the pambazo, a dissertation on the art of Mexican cooking.  

Brunch for the Family

This year, we’d like to begin our brunch explorations at Bonita, a new Williamsburg Mexican spot opened by the owners of the neighborhood’s favorite diner, Diner. Almost everything cooked up behind the counter by the friendly gentlemen dressed in their chili-pepper-embossed do-rags is superior, although if we had to choose just one dish, we’d take the noble “pambazo,” a towering composition from the kitchens of Mexico City, composed of crumbled handmade chorizo, fresh sliced avocado, and crème fraîche, served between two pieces of toasted brioche soaked in chocolate-mole sauce. After that, it’s on to aKa cafe, on Clinton Street, for omelettes made with egg whites only (stuffed, if you wish, with roast pulled chicken or molasses-baked ham); thick wedges of French toast buried in fruit; and exotically coddled eggs poured into hollowed-out slices of Pullman bread, then sealed with a melted slice of Fontina cheese.

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