Feature

The In Cut

Is flatiron steak the new hanger?

By Rob Patronite

In the cut Jane's flatiron steak has eclipsed hamger on the menu.

"It’s the same thing that happened with hanger steak a few years ago,” says butcher Jerry Ottomanelli. A slew of smart chefs are just discovering the flatiron steak, a remarkably flavorful, surprisingly tender, and—most important—cheap cut from the shoulder that old-school butchers call “chicken steak.” “You always have to give the public something new,” Ottomanelli says. “But it is a very tasty piece of meat.” And don’t worry: It doesn’t taste like chicken.

Jane
100 West Houston Street (212-254-7000)
A hanger man turned fervid flatiron fan, chef Glenn Harris features the cut in everything from lunchtime salads and sandwiches to a dinner entrée of grilled, thick-sliced steak with russet-potato hash, baby string beans, and homemade ketchup ($21). Sunday evening’s generously portioned $12 flatiron steak and fries is a steal.

The Sunburnt Cow

137 Avenue C (212-529-0005)
Flatiron steak done Aussie style—wildfire-spiced and served with a stewy braise of tomatoes and scallions, plus roasted garlic and dabs of goat cheese ($16). For the full outback experience, dine in the backyard garden.

WD-50
50 Clinton Street (212-477-2900)
Sliced flatiron steak with Chinese broccoli, shallots, and a bone-marrow tart ($27) is Wylie Dufresne’s edgy, arteriosclerotic answer to the trend.

Cub Room
131 Sullivan Street (212-677-4100)
New chef Benjamin Grossman is used to working with fancier cuts at Picholine and La Grenouille, but he says the flatiron, if done properly, is “extremely succulent, tender,” and even “beautiful.” He serves his cumin-chili-marinated version with fries and chipotle aïoli for lunch ($17) and as a dinner special ($21).

Dominic Restaurant/Social Club
349 Greenwich Street (212-343-0700)
As he’s transformed Portuguese Pico into “American-Italian” Dominic, John Villa has replaced his black-Angus hanger steak and St. Jorge potato cake with a flatiron steak, served with heirloom-tomato salad and Gorgonzola-and-potato ravioli ($18).