Forever Fabulous at Indochine
You can’t teach an old trendy restaurant new tricks.
“I hate to say ‘bringing back the eighties,’ ” said Indochine owner Jean Marc Houmard at the restaurant’s twentieth-anniversary party, “because that’s what we were panned for by Frank Bruni” in a scabrous Times review. But the party on Friday, November 19, was pretty eighties all the same: mirror-covered drag queens, wait staff humping each other (“kind of an Indochine tradition,” says Houmard), Tama Janowitz, Valentino, Tatum O’Neal, etc. Sally Hershberger, the $600-a-scalp hairstylist, was also in attendance. She said that she’d recently styled George and Laura Bush’s hair for Vogue. “I didn’t vote for them,” she said, “but they’re cool. And not vain, unlike some other people in the White House.” Laura has “beautiful hair,” which Hershberger “ran her hands through” (she did the same to the president). The person whose hair she’d most like to cut? Madeleine Albright. “I’d layer it. But not shag it.”
—Matt Dobkin
Intelligencer: Nov. 29, 2004 - Dec. 6, 2004
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