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The Knives Are Out

Will Lever House unseat The Four Seasons at lunch?


Ever since the restaurant at the Lever House opened last month, it’s been giving The Four Seasons some heavy competition for midtown power-lunching—and the ladies somewhere to claim as their own in between jaunts to Barneys. Deborah Schoeneman does a taste test.

Usual Suspects: Boardman sisters, Rena Sindi, Aerin Lauder
Burger Price: $18
Most Expensive Item: $34 Maine lobster tails
Novelty: Warm cookies with malted milk
Working the Room: Michael Bailey (poached from Michael’s)
Accessory: Hermès bag
Recent Party: Gwen Stefani’s for LeSportsac
Gender Divide: “It doesn’t have an ethos of maleness!” chirrups socialite Jamee Gregory. “Maybe it’s the soft curved materials” that lure women, adds co-owner John McDonald.

Usual Suspects: Barry Diller, Charlie Rose, Richard Holbrooke
Burger Price: $29
Most Expensive Item: $47 Dover sole
Novelty: Tower of cotton candy
Working the Room: Maître d’ and co-owner Julian Niccolini
Accessory: Hermès tie
Recent Party: Madeleine Albright’s for her book
Gender Divide: Very male. “I only go there when I’m being taken by powerful men,” says Gregory. “Young girls are always the most popular item on the menu,” adds Niccolini.


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