Ever since the restaurant at the Lever House opened last month, it’s been giving The Four Seasons some heavy competition for midtown power-lunching—and the ladies somewhere to claim as their own in between jaunts to Barneys. Deborah Schoeneman does a taste test.

LEVER HOUSE
Usual Suspects: Boardman sisters, Rena Sindi, Aerin Lauder
Burger Price: $18
Most Expensive Item: $34 Maine lobster tails
Novelty: Warm cookies with malted milk
Working the Room: Michael Bailey (poached from Michael’s)
Accessory: Hermès bag
Recent Party: Gwen Stefani’s for LeSportsac
Gender Divide: “It doesn’t have an ethos of maleness!” chirrups socialite Jamee Gregory. “Maybe it’s the soft curved materials” that lure women, adds co-owner John McDonald.

THE FOUR SEASONS
Usual Suspects: Barry Diller, Charlie Rose, Richard Holbrooke
Burger Price: $29
Most Expensive Item: $47 Dover sole
Novelty: Tower of cotton candy
Working the Room: Maître d’ and co-owner Julian Niccolini
Accessory: Hermès tie
Recent Party: Madeleine Albright’s for her book
Gender Divide: Very male. “I only go there when I’m being taken by powerful men,” says Gregory. “Young girls are always the most popular item on the menu,” adds Niccolini.

Related:

• Archive: “Intelligencer Features”
• Articles by Deborah Schoeneman
• Table of Contents: Oct 13, 2003 issue of New York | Subscribe!