How come Kate Moss and Marc Jacobs have already eaten at Matsuri, but they’re telling me it’s not yet open?
Are you a celebrity? I think not.

Oh, come on, even Bianca Jagger’s been there.
Hey, when was the last time you did anything for Nicaragua? Anyway, stop moaning and order the delish lotus roots or sardines with plums.

So who do I have to kiss up to for a good table?
Any one of the three owners: Mikio Shinagawa (Omen), Eric Goode (B Bar & Grill), or Sean MacPherson, who has opened nearly every trendy spot in L.A.

Matsuri, at the Maritime Hotel, 396 West 16th Street (212-243-6400).

Related:

• Archive: “Intelligencer Features”
• Articles by Beth Landman
• Table of Contents: October 20, 2003 issue of New York | Subscribe!