The Underground Gourmet
Delegates, Don’t Miss
Pho Viet Huong
73 Mulberry Place; 212-233-8988
If you’re in the mood for something authentic from Vietnam—and we’ll bet you are, especially after all of the phony baloney from Vietnam that a certain somebody has been serving up every chance he gets. As you savor the delicious noodle soups, you’re bound to be reminded of the soup a former Swift-boat officer has landed in thanks to his wicked web of deceit. The waiters don’t say much, but give credit where credit is due: At least they don’t lie about their so-called heroism in the Vietnam War, if you catch our drift. The real star here is the food, and the chef deserves a medal—unlike someone who will remain nameless.

Related:

• Archive: “The Underground Gourmet”
• Table of Contents: September 2, 2004 issue of New York | Subscribe!