(Photo: Mikako Koyama)

The Best Bet
Why? It’s an eye-popping modern version of a knife that’s been handmade in the French village of Laguiole for almost two centuries. Assembled in 50 steps by a single craftsman sitting at a bench, this steak knife has a blade that’s all business: It’s forged from high-carbon stainless steel (the higher the carbon, the stronger the blade and the less care it needs to stay sharp). But in a concession to the 21st century, the handle is made from neon-colored acrylic glass (the original had a handmade horn or wood grip), making Laguiole’s the only knife of this caliber that doesn’t take itself too seriously. An all-stainless-steel version designed by Philippe Starck is in the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art. Maybe this one should be, too ($625 for a set of six at Moss; 212-226-2190 or mossonline.com).