1. Ici
Nibble gingerly on croissants, or take more substantial comfort in spicy tripe stew or poached eggs with truffle dressing and grits.
246 DeKalb Ave., nr. Vanderbilt Ave., Fort Greene, Brooklyn; 718-789-2778

2. Spotted Pig
April Bloomfield plumbs the depths of her rib-sticking English-food heritage, from bubble and squeak to Yorkshire pudding.
314 W. 11th St., at Greenwich St.; 212-620-0393

3. ’Wichcraft
Gooey grilled fontina, hearty meat loaf, or repentant goat cheese and avocado on whole grain—take your pick.
49 E. 19th St., nr. Park Ave. So.; 212-780-0577

4. The Pink Tea Cup
Black-eyed peas for good luck; fried chicken and smothered pork chops for the hell of it.
42 Grove St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-807-6755

5. Chip Shop
For some, nothing soothes a queasy stomach and an aching head like battered, deep-fried fish and chips, followed by an oil-kissed Twinkie.
383 Fifth Ave., at 6th St., Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-832-7701

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: January 3, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!