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The decor at Gari (shiny glass windows, blond wood tables, a sushi bar hewn in the minimalist Nordic style) glows in a familiar modernist way. And aside from Sugio's imaginative sushi, the menu reads like it was ripped from some anonymous fusion restaurant in suburban L.A. None of the non-sushi items is very arresting, and a couple are downright grisly. But Sugio's sushi and sashimi omakases are as fine as they were at his original Upper West Side restaurant, although my sushi-snobs may have a few quibbles. The rice might be a little stale and might lack the proper amount of vinegar, but so what? If you've never had the pleasure of chef Sugio's great swooping sushi constructions (toro dabbed with sweet tofu sauce, soft anago supported by surfboards of avocado, to name two), Gari is a good place to start. But be warned. The sushi omakase starts at $57 for just ten pieces.

Chef's sushi omakase $57-$67; tuna plate, $7