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The spicy offering—dips tucked into a tricolore flower of handmade chips—is the first clue that the show in this spiffy space is grander than the neighborhood. A duo of sensational seviches, nestled in ice, compounds the pleasure. It takes four of us to handle the parrillada (surf and turf for two). Skirt steak, sirloin, chorizo, chicken, lobster, octopus, and head-on shrimp—all are a marvel of careful cooking.

Photo credit: Kenneth Chen — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Lunch Special: Mon-Sat, noon-4:30pm, $6