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Housed in a former fish warehouse in Williamsburg, Sparky's has an urban-industrial appeal, with its cracked concrete wall, rough wooden beams, bare bulbs, and varnished pine tables. A picture of Sparky, the owner's dog, hangs on a wall of the onetime loading dock. Owner Brian Benavidez spent months getting the details right—wheedling a local bakery into custom-baking his unusually sturdy and flavorful buns, then tasting dozens of hot dogs before settling on franks made locally at Dine's Farm in the Catskills. Surprisingly, Benevidez steams his hot dogs rather than boiling, grilling, or frying them. Instead of rendering them limp and lifeless, the method actually preserves their snap and highlights their remarkable beefy flavor. The quality of the hot dog is matched by the quality of the toppings. Choose your own or try one of the thirteen combinations, like home-made relish, hot cherry peppers, pickle, tomato, and celery salt (No. 6), a worthy tribute to the Chicago-style dog; classic sauerkraut and mustard (No. 10); and our favorite, "buffalo wing" sauce and blue-cheese dressing with a dash of celery salt (No. 7), one of those inspired all-American pairings like fried chicken and waffles—pure fast-food fusion genius. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite's Full Review (11/11/02)