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Rialto is the kind of place that exploded onto the Nolita scene a few years ago, when the neighborhood itself was coming into its own, but has since been forgotten by the crowds of trend-seeking downtown diners. Fortunately, though, no one has told the kitchen, which continues to turn out ambitious, exacting renditions of vaguely American-Mediterranean comfort food, like a rich spaghetti bolognese with its tomato and meat in fine balance; crisp, greaseless fried calamari with a spicy dipping sauce; and a damn good burger. And the portions are so large you’ll want to share with your neighbors—if you can find any in this mysteriously empty throwback to the late nineties. — Matt Gross