Photographs: Wally Gobetz (Red Hook); Ryan Monaghan (The Spotted Pig); Dave Cook (Mo Gridder’s); Stewart Isbell (Fette Sau); Greg Kellerman (Rockaway Taco); Ben Stechschulte (Arepa Lady); Melissa Hom/New York Magazine (New Leaf Cafe, El Quinto Pino, Resto, Corton, Torrisi, and Katz’s); Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine (Cafe Kashkar, Vinegar Hill House, Charles Pan- Fried Chicken, Patsy’s, Da Ciro, Momofuku, Roberta’s, Mile End, The Smoke Joint, Dram Shop, Franny’s, Yun Nan Flavour Snack Shop, The Loading Dock, Tortilleria Nixtamal, and Zero Otto Nove); Jed Egan/New York Magazine (El Malecon); Ashley Consiglio/New York Magazine (5 & Diamond, Barney Greengrass, Atelier De Joel Robuchon, Minetta Tavern, Sho Shaun Hergatt, Bake & Things, Acme Smoked Fish, Feeding Tree, and Real Azteca); Jackie Ladner/New York Magazine (Balthazar); Lea Golis (Iris Cafe, Agnanti’s, Spicy & Tasty, Manducatis Rustica, Alpha, and Sripraphai); Andrew Ingalls/Courtesy Of Vinegar Hill House; Chris Villano/Courtesy Of Scarpetta; Aldo Di Berardino/Courtesy Of Saraghina; Christine Williams/Courtesy Of Brennan & Carr; Lauren Marsh/Courtesy Of Lloyd’s Carrot Cake; Tom Lana/Courtesy Of Coals; Alma Benussi/Courtesy Of Enoteca Maria; Courtesy Of Xi’an Famous Foods, Tanoreen, Frankies, Farm On Adderley, Johnny’s Famous Reef, Salvatore Of Soho, New Asha, And Marea.

Related:

• Archive: “Cover Story”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Adam Platt | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: Apr 19, 2010 issue of New York | Subscribe!