99¢ Fresh Pizza, left, and 2 Bros. Pizza, right.    (Photo: Hannah Whitaker)

The Plain Cheese Slice

Critics' Pick
99¢ Fresh Pizza
151 E. 43rd St.
Relatively light and crisp, with a garlic-powder nose and visible flecks of oregano. The flat lip has a vaguely greasy, fried flavor, but the balance is good, the components integrated, and sag nonexistent. The winner—despite a stealthily applied sales tax that edges the price up to $1.07.

2 Bros. Pizza
32 St. Marks Pl.
Doughy, saucy, and so overloaded with cheese it suffers from chronic droop syndrome. The lip is thick and somewhat detached, like deep-dish or pan pizza, and the overall flavor is cafeteria school lunch. On the plus side, it is more filling.