Manhattan Chinatown Cart, left, and Flushing Chinatown Cart, right.    (Photo: Hannah Whitaker)

The Xinjiang Lamb Skewer

Manhattan Chinatown Cart
Forsyth St. at Division St.
Smaller chunks of meat, a modest dusting of spice, and an overall lambier flavor. All in all, a nice snack for a Chinatown stroll.

Critics' Pick
Flushing Chinatown Cart
41st Ave., E. of Main St.
Meatier, smokier, and spicier, this skewer dominates. But then again, you have to schlep to Flushing for it.