Fried Dumpling, left, Vanessa’s Dumpling House, center, and Prosperity Dumpling, right.    (Photo: Hannah Whitaker)

Chive-and-Pork Fried Dumplings

Vanessa’s Dumpling House
118A Eldridge St.
After a recent renovation, Vanessa’s dropped from five to four for a dollar, brazenly deviating from the going rate. But what you lose in volume, you gain in a superb contrast of textures: the crisp chewiness of the golden-seared side versus its soft, quasi-tender counterpart.

Critics' Pick
Prosperity Dumpling
46 Eldridge St.
A five-minute wait guaranteed freshness, and the plump, irregularly shaped beauties have the tenderest wrapper and a loosely packed, juicy filling. The crisp side could be crisper, but sheer quantity and thus better value nudge the dark horse Prosperity into the winner’s seat.

Fried Dumpling
99 Allen St.
Oh, how the mighty have fallen. Our skinny specimens, retrieved from a warmer, tasted tired and wan, with little juice to speak of. Fresh from the pan, they might fare better, but why leave it up to chance?

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• Archive: “Features”
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