You can’t have a proper Neapolitan pizza without a meticulously proportioned, firebrick-lined dome oven like the one at Kesté (pictured). At 1,000 degrees, it can cook a pizza in 45 seconds.
The standard slice-joint oven. Without it, there would be no Ray’s. True, there’s nothing particularly sexy about a gas oven, but certain pizzerias, like Di Fara in Midwood and Nick’s in Forest Hills (pictured), are able to achieve greatness with it.
Coal burns hottest, up to 1,200 degrees, but is hard to control. Detractors call it dirty, fickle, and apt to dry out the dough. But it also creates a characteristic char that distinguishes the pies at Lombardi’s, John’s, Totonno’s, and Patsy’s (pictured).
Electric ovens may not get very hot, but they’re easy to control and produce consistent results, and the high-tech Italian modelsólike this triple-decker at Farinellaólook great.