(Photo: Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine)

Italians, it turns out, aren’t big on vino with pizza. Beer, yes (Peroni, usually). Even Coke. There is one rather obscure exception: Gragnano, the frizzante red that comes from the town of the same name on the Sorrento Peninsula outside of Naples. Drunk young and served chilled, Gragnano has a touch of sweetness, a smoky finish, and a slight effervescence that cuts the fattiness of cheese and oil. David Orange, president of Brooklyn-based importer Wine Emporium, started bringing in Cantine Federiciane Monteleone Penisola Sorrentina Gragnano five years ago, and describes the blend as “inky, grapy, and similar to Lambrusco, with smaller bubbles.” The wine has DOC status, appealing to those new-school pizzaioli who aspire to Neapolitan authenticity in all things. That’s why you’ll find it on the lists at Una Pizza Napoletana, Motorino, and Zero Otto Nove. You can also pick up a bottle for around $15 at 67 Wine, Astor Wines & Spirits, and Garnet Wines & Liquors.

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• Archive: “Features”
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• Table of Contents: Jul 20, 2009 issue of New York | Subscribe!