(Photo: Jeremy Liebman)

(1.) Lardo Pizza (pictured) at Otto: Melting-thin strips of pure pork fat as the ultimate pizza topping.

(2.) Fresh (uncured) bacon at Gramercy Tavern: This braised-and-grilled pork belly is all salty, unctuous goodness.

(3.) Chopped liver mixed with schmaltz (liquid chicken fat) and gribenes (crispy fried chicken skin) at Sammy’s Roumanian: For when plain old chopped liver won’t do.

(4.) Red-cooked pork with chestnuts at Grand Sichuan Int’l: Chunky cubes of meat glazed with a rich, syrupy sauce. Ask for them “extra fatty.”

(5.) Fatty duck at Fatty Crab: It’s brined, steamed, and cut into meaty hunks, then deep-fried like a batch of doughnuts.

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: February 27, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!