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Shop Like a Chef (Preferably in His Own Store)


Market Table, to go, and to stay.   

In the past, there have been restaurants, and there have been food shops, and seldom the twain have met. The two businesses cater to very different types of customers: those who want to be fed, and those who yearn to feed themselves (and don’t mind cleaning up after). Recently, though, the borders have blurred, and this fall, a number of chefs and restaurateurs have gone retail, opening spinoff markets they’ve stocked with the precision and artistry of museum curators. Many more (including Franny’s cheese-centric Brooklyn Larder, and an Italian grocery from Manducatis) are on the way. The common aesthetic, if there is one, is Early General Store, informed by a pre-FreshDirect nostalgia for the neighborhood butcher and baker of yesteryear, combined with a very modern demand for hyperlocal, small-production foodstuffs. Whether these new markets exist to fill a perceived niche, build a brand, or sell more takeout, they generally purvey not only food but philosophy. We take stock.

Tutto Sfoglia
135 E. 92nd St., nr. Lexington Ave.

Ron Suhanosky and his wife, Colleen Marnell-Suhanosky, market their own line of pastas, sauces, gelati, and reputation-making bread at the store next door. Opens November 1. Colleen’s gianduja cookie.
548 10th St., nr. Seventh Ave., Park Slope, Brooklyn 718-576-2484

To save themselves a trip into Manhattan for every new kitchen gadget, Applewood’s David and Laura Shea opened a tiny kitchen-supply shop last week, stocking everything from side towels to “a cheap plastic peeler that really works.” Mr. Bento.
Little Piggy (Market)
64 Lafayette Ave., at S. Elliott Pl., Fort Greene, Brooklyn; 718-797-0292
Fort Greene’s answer to Marlow & Sons by way of Petticoat Junction, this spinoff of the adjacent barbecue restaurant, Smoke Joint, has a creaky front-porch vibe, a thing for local produce, artisanal ham, and a full eat-in or takeout menu of its own. Anson Mills grits.
Borough Food & Drink
12 E. 22nd St., nr. Broadway; 212-260-0103
With something like a Smithsonian board member’s sense of duty, Borough consultant Zak Pelaccio has combed the city for its greatest culinary treasures. They’re all here—from De Lillo Pastry Shop chocolate biscotti to Russ & Daughters herring. Jar of ajvar (a.k.a. Serbian salsa).
Market Table
54 Carmine St., at Bedford St.; 212-255-2100
Vermont via Greenwich Village, this two-in-one venture is part new-breed country store, part seasonally inspired restaurant, opening for dinner this week. Feel like cooking? Buy your corn husked, your favas shelled, and Cryovacked lamb shanks to heat and eat. Smartfood-inspired house-popped popcorn dusted with grated Pecorino.
214 Greene Ave., nr. Grand Ave., Clinton Hill, Brooklyn
This combination juice bar, fromagerie, charcuterie, and florist, from the owners of nearby Choice Market, will sell baking supplies, baby food, and four kinds of vacuum-sealed hamburger patties when it opens next month. Sicilian olive oil in refillable bottle.
BLT Market
430 Sixth Ave., at Central Park S.; 212-521-6125
The expansion of Laurent Tourondel’s brand incorporates its local, seasonal theme into its décor, its shelves tastefully stocked with Atlantic City taffy, Maine mustard, Hamptons honey—and, for some reason, those cute little Staub cocottes. Lunch.
Spuyten Duyvil Grocery
218 Bedford Ave., at N. 5th St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-384-1520
The owners of Brooklyn’s beloved beer bar have opened a shop that puts every bodega beer case to total and utter shame, and stocks some equally esoteric food. A set of pilsner glasses.


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