Feature

How to Treat a Truffle

San Domenico’s Tony May won’t abide tuber abuse.

By Robin Raisfeld & Rob Patronite
Published Nov 12, 2007

(Photo: Arnaldo Magnani/Getty Images)

What’s the big deal about Tuber magnatum pico?
Nothing beats the Piedmontese truffle. It is the king of Italian cuisine, just a great gift of nature to all of us!

How to pick ’em: Above all, the truffle should be firm. The aroma is also important. Keep it wrapped in paper for up to a week or ten days, but remember that truffles shrink three to four percent every day.

Best food matches: Dishes that contain eggs, butter, Parmigiano, pasta, and rice. Fresh pasta is better suited than dry. It allows for the butter sauce, mixed with hot water (from the pasta cooker), to become creamy. But cream should never be used with any pasta preparation with white truffles.

How close a shave?
One should almost see through its shaved slivers. I recommend five or six grams over any given dish.

What to drink: Piedmontese Nebbiolos, Dolcetto, and Barberas are best. These wines should be fairly young.

What do you think of black truffles?
Not much!

How about frozen white truffles?
Forget it!