In the stealth opening of the season (and his career thus far), Jean-Georges Vongerichten has quietly unveiled Matsugen, the “Tokyo Cuisine” replacement for his haute-Chinese 66. Housemade soba noodles are the purported star of the show, sharing menu space with a hodgepodge of sushi and sashimi, the obligatory Wagyu and kurabota pork dishes, imported pickles, and a refreshing array of gelatin-based desserts.
241 Church St., at Leonard St.; 212-925-0202.