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The Icee Gets Serious

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Espresso addicts are not the sort, when the temperature rises, to be placated with watery iced coffee from the local deli. Fortunately, the coffee granita at Grom, the Slow Food–approved gelateria with two Manhattan locations, is another creature entirely. Slushy ice crystals of intense dark coffee are sweetened just enough to balance the brew’s bitter edge, and the result packs a huge flavor hit. It’s tasty enough plain, but a glob of fresh whipped cream on top adds serious extra mouthfeel. You will never be satisfied by a mere Frappuccino again (233 Bleecker St., at Carmine St.; 212-206-1738; and 2165 Broadway, nr. 76th St.; 212-362-1837).


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