What’s remarkable about reigning ragù master Michael White is that the man can’t stop topping himself. If you’ve tried his fusilli with braised octopus and bone marrow at his latest restaurant, Marea, you know what we mean. If you haven’t, Marea’s special menu called Le Collezione at the Crudo Bar provides a perfect introductory crash course: six crudi and a five-course “pasta progression,” plus dessert for $125 (240 Central Park S., nr. Broadway; 212-582-5100).