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Lord of the Rings

An ancient Turkish street snack challenges New York’s bagel hegemony.

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Looking a little like the secret love child of the bagel and the street pretzel, the Turkish simit has arrived in Manhattan at the new branch of the venerable Turkish confectioner Güllüoglu, and it’s not too much to say that those New York icons better watch their backs. At Güllüoglu, the delicious golden ringlets are completely mobbed with sesame seeds and baked throughout the day. Made with flour from the Harran Plain and lightly slicked with olive oil, they’re delicately chewy with a rich, buttery flavor reminiscent of City Bakery’s pretzel croissant. Traditionally served with Turkish tea for breakfast, the simit can also be split lengthwise and turned into a sandwich with Kashkaval cheese and tomato. But, please, don’t even think of scooping it. 982 Second Ave., at 52nd St.; 212-813-0500.


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