Illustration by Mark Nerys

1. Slice a rustic sourdough loaf (Kluger is partial to Sullivan St Bakery’s “truccione saré,” formerly known as casareccio) into one-half-to-three-quarter-inch slices.

Illustration by Mark Nerys

2. Pour a generous splash (about two tablespoons) of olive oil in a nonstick pan, and heat over medium flame.

3. Put slices in pan, rub the bread around a few seconds to absorb the oil, and flip over.

Illustration by Mark Nerys

4. Let cook, under a small weight if necessary, until golden brown. (“It shouldn’t be so crunchy that it’s dry and when you bite it, it hurts,” says Kluger.)

Illustration by Mark Nerys

5. Flip to cook other side.

6. Top with restraint, and serve while warm. (Kluger cuts slices widthwise into four pieces for easier eating and—if you’re so inclined—sharing.)

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Robin Raisfeld | Rob Patronite
• Table of Contents: Mar 7, 2011 issue of New York | Subscribe!