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What dish represents the essence of delicatessen? Hint: It’s not the baked beans. No, it’s the sandwiches. Which is why, in this era of food specialization, the Manhattan debut from Brooklyn deli mavens Noah Bernamoff and Rae Cohen seems like such an excellent idea. Their Noho shop Mile End Sandwich opens next week with seventeen variations on the theme including pickled tongue on pumpernickel; grilled haloumi on pita; and this mouth-waterer they call a breakfast burger (fried egg, veal-sausage patty, apple butter, and maple syrup on an English muffin) (53 Bond St., nr. Bowery; 212-529-2990).


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