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Battle of the Bubbles

Chief restaurant critic Adam Platt tastes and ranks eight locally made sodas.

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Fizzy offerings from Perry St, P&H Soda and Syrup, and Brooklyn Soda Works.  

1. Brooklyn Soda Works’ Watermelon-Tarragon-Lemon Soda, $4
Saturdays at Brooklyn Flea, 176 Lafayette Ave., nr. Vanderbilt Ave., Ft. Greene
A Clinton Hill couple (an artist and a chemist) craft wildly inventive sodas out of mostly local, exclusively in-season ingredients.
“Smells like watermelon, tastes like a nice, fizzy lemonade.”

2. P&H Soda and Syrup’s Ginger Soda, $3.25
At Brooklyn Farmacy, 513 Henry St., at Sackett St., Carroll Gardens; 718-522-6260
Soda blogger-instructor-chef Anton Nocito is the mastermind behind P&H’s sodas, which can also be bought in syrup form at Williamsburg’s Brooklyn Kitchen ($12 for twelve ounces) and mixed at home.
“Nice ginger ale: light and smooth, and not overly gingery.”

3. Perry St’s Ginger-Lime Soda, $5
176 Perry St., nr. West Side Hwy.; 212-352-1900
Jean-Georges Vongerichten has been serving homespun sodas at his restaurants since long before said sodas were cool.
“A fine thing to sip on a summer afternoon, but it could use a bit more punch. I don’t really taste the ginger.”

4. Stand’s Blackberry Soda, $5
24 E. 12th St., nr. University Pl.; 212-488-5900
The Village burger joint also does an array of house sodas, which are made to order at the bar.
“It looks pleasantly grapey and tastes like there’s no sugar in it. It’s failing in a soda-pop way but succeeding in a juice way.”

5. Fort Defiance’s Anise Soda, $2.50
365 Van Brunt St., at Dikeman St., Red Hook; 347-453-6672
The latest flavor from the Red Hook bar’s soda fountain, hand-mixed by owner St. John Frizell.
“Quite nice but too sweet. It has a lemony thing going on, but it’s really sugary.”

6. Dogmatic’s Ginger Soda $2.50
26 E. 17th St., nr. Union Sq. W.; 212-414-0600
How a haute dog stand makes a soda: combine purée of fresh fruit with seltzer and ice to order.
“I don’t know what this is, but it tastes like sugarcane mixed with sarsaparilla mixed with soap.”

7. Bubby’s Pie Company’s Celery Soda, $4
120 Hudson St., nr. N. Moore St.; 212-219-0666
Bubby’s is known for its pies, but also makes a selection of sodas from scratch, including root beer and a house cola.
“Good except for the chlorine-y backtaste. Like a real lemonade gone slightly off.”

8. Ginger Ale by Bruce Cost’s Fresh Ginger Ginger Ale, $6.99
For four at Whole Foods, 95 E. Houston St., at Bowery; 212-420-1320
Made with fresh ginger and cane sugar, and bottled in Brooklyn, this is one of the few fridge-ready local soda options.
“Faint ginger nose overwhelmed by cloying sweetness. The vanilla-y aftertaste hammers everything that comes before.”


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