Aside from the economic and environmental pluses, the best argument for making your own soda water is fizz control. Prefer gentle S. Pellegrino–type carbonation over harsh club-soda bubbles? The best of the countertop soda-makers, the Sodastream Jet ($79.98; Broadway Panhandler, 65 E. 8th St., nr. Broadway; 866-266-5927), lets you modulate the intensity. The machine comes with refillable CO2 canisters good for 60 or 110 liters of soda and requires no electricity or batteries. Empties must be exchanged by mail or at a participating store.