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Spring Forecast

Thai by way of Oregon, Baltimore lake trout, Wisconsin-style pizza, and parsley-root sundaes for dessert: a guide to what New York will be eating next.


Lake Trout's "cheese fish" sandwich.  

Lake Trout
160 Havemeyer St., nr. S. 2nd St., Williamsburg; no phone yet; April
Williamsburg’s regional American food guru Joe Carroll (of Fette Sau and St. Anselm) takes on another scrumptious icon: the Baltimore-style deep-fried fish specialty typically doused with hot sauce, served with white bread, and known in that city as lake trout. “The thing is,” says Carroll, “it isn’t trout, and it’s not from a lake; it’s whiting.” Also: fried shrimp, crab cakes, turkey wings, and fries.

The NoMad
1170 Broadway, at 28th St.; 212-796-1500; late March
Daniel Humm and Will Guidara consider Miles Davis the creative muse behind Eleven Madison Park; for their first hotel project—the posher, pricier stepsister of the nearby Ace—they’ve cited the “studied” and “deliberate” chaos of the Rolling Stones. Parisian flea-market finds and a 200-year-old French-château fireplace outfit rooms encircling a central atrium.

Gran Electrica
5 Front St., nr. Old Fulton St., Dumbo; 718-852-2789; late March
From the team behind Brooklyn Heights’ Colonie comes the first of two new Dumbo restaurants, this one regional Mexican. Think parsnip esquites, chicharrón gorditas, and the seldom-seen Guadalajaran specialty carne en su jugo, which translates deliciously as “meat in its juices.”

Yunnan Kitchen
79 Clinton St., nr. Rivington St.; 212-253-2527; late March
The southwestern Chinese province of Yunnan borders Laos, Myanmar, and Vietnam, and the proximity makes for an extremely varied cuisine. Mushrooms and edible blossoms loom large, and factor into Franny’s veteran Travis Post’s menu, which also features ginkgo with lily bulbs and greens, and rice cakes with salt-cured ham.

Blue Ribbon Sushi Izakaya at Thompson LES
187 Orchard St., nr. Stanton St.; 212-466-0404; April
The Bromberg brothers’ latest iteration of their sushi-bar concept emphasizes the communal, in both seating and eating, with lazy-Susan-topped tables, whole fish served sashimi style, and their signature fried chicken by the bucket. Also on tap: soju-based highball drinks and a plethora of nose-to-tail animal parts, from beef necks to chicken feet.

Giovanni Rana Pasta Kitchen
75 Ninth Ave., nr. 16th St.; no phone yet; April
If you remember Odette Fada’s exceptional risotto fests at San Domenico NY, where she cooked for over a decade, you’ll welcome her return, this time in the employ of an Italian pasta manufacturer in the Chelsea Market space recently vacated by 202. Prepared foods and fresh pastas will be available for home consumption.

La Vara's coca de cebes.  

La Vara
268 Clinton St., nr. Verandah Pl., Cobble Hill; 718-422-0065; late March
Alex Raij is as much Spanish-food scholar as she is chef, and her third venture with husband Eder Montero is a thesis on the cuisine’s Moorish and Jewish legacies. Their menu evokes the Persian tradition via rabbit escabèche, and explores the kinship between couscous and the Murcian pasta gurullos.
See Also: Slideshow: What to Eat at La Vara

Mile End Sandwich
53 Bond St., nr. Bowery; no phone yet; April
Everyone’s favorite Canadian-Brooklyn cook-it-from-scratch locavore deli crosses the river to focus on the best part of any menu: the sandwiches. They’re all here, from the smoked meat to the mishmash (scrambled eggs, salami, hot dog, mustard greens on an onion roll), plus—if Noah Bernamoff’s wife and partner Rae Cohen gets her way—salads.

Pok Pok Ny
127 Columbia St., nr. Kane St., Columbia Street Waterfront District; no phone yet; April
James Beard Best Chef Northwest 2011 Andrew Ricker whetted New York’s appetite with his Lower East Side wing shop. Next up, a full-scale Brooklyn restaurant serving assiduously researched, authentic but approachable Southeast Asian food that will, we hope, free us from the decades-long tyranny of the generic ersatz stuff.

Porsena Sinistra
21 E. 7th St., nr. Third Ave.; no phone yet; May
By day, this sixteen-stool annex to Sara Jenkins’s Porsena will function as a lunch counter serving soups, salads, and sandwiches; by night, chef Sebastian Jaramillo helms a wine bar dispensing cured meats, raw-milk cheeses, vegetables, and the raw-fish preparations Italians call crudo.

Reynards at Wythe Hotel
80 Wythe Ave., at N. 11th St., Williamsburg; 718-460-8000; May
Whole-animal, wood-fired cooking and daily changing menus from Williamsburg locavore royalty, the team behind Diner and Marlow & Sons. Named for the folkloric French fox, it occupies the ground floor of a century-old former cooperage, with additional seating in an internal courtyard. Bonus hotel amenities: a rooftop bar and “seasonal” minibars.

84 E. 4th St., at Second Ave.; no phone yet; May
After a brief Sonoma sojourn to open Restaurant Eloise, chefs Ginevra Iverson and Eric Korsh undertake an East Village mom-and-pop rooted in French and Mediterranean traditions and supplied, if all goes well, by a restaurant-dedicated greenhouse on an upstate farm.

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