Lonesome Dove Western Bistro
29 W. 21st St., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-414-3139
When Tim Love, the cowboy chef from Fort Worth, Texas, unleashes a branch of his Lonesome Dove Western Bistro in the Flatiron district this week, even New York’s most astute menu-readers may need help deciphering the bill of fare. Herewith, a glossary of terms straight from chef Love himself:
PRAIRIE BUTTER: Take the whole femur bones of a buffalo and split ’em lengthwise. Roast with a chile rub and then some chiles and onions. Scoop the marrow out and paint it on the “camp bread.” [See below.] It’s gorgeous!
CAMP BREAD: Similar to grilled pizza but thicker, it’s a real simple yeast-risen bread that I’ve used on the trail. [Serve with prairie butter.]
FOIE GRAS SHOOTER: Liquefied foie gras, something I created a couple of years ago. I roast the foie gras with some chiles and some salt and then we take all that fat and emulsify it with orange juice, Grand Marnier, and fresh coffee grounds. Put it into a shot, top with whipped cream, and make a little tuile cookie with foie gras instead of butter. In the cowboy spirit, do it in a shot and eat the cookie. Gorgeous!
TOMAHAWK CHOP: Something the city’s never seen before, for sure. It’s a gargantuan cut that I invented. It’s the entire rib of the steer. The bone’s eighteen to twenty inches long, the meat’s about 32 ounces of rib eye, Texas prime. We age it 28 days wet, and then 21 days dry, sear it, and then roast it, and the marrow of that rib bone just drains into the rib eye. I carve it tableside for two with a split lobster tail and two day-boat scallops.
STATE FAIR SAUCE: Goes with the buffalo corn dogs: It’s like a Dijonaisse with a garlic aïoli with a chipotle mustard. We take the buffalo tenderloin and we cut it into three small cubes and skewer them, so when you bite into the corn dog, the whole thing doesn’t come off. We serve the corn dogs in a paper tray. They’re awesome. Kids love ’em.
FRIED LOBSTER BACON: Goes with the monkfish braised in a posole stew. We poach the lobster in veal stock first about halfway, then we cut it up into chunks and soak it in bacon fat, then pull it out and deep-fry it in peanut oil. It’s real crispy on the outside, so it gets that kind of bacon chew. It’s gorgeous!
—ROBIN RAISFELD AND ROB PATRONITE