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My Son the Meat Smoker

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Canadian expat Noah Bernamoff took a law-school leave to open Mile End, the new, newfangled Boerum Hill deli. What makes this delicatessen different from all others? The bagels come from Montreal, the pickles and stout mustard are made in-house, and the pièce de résistance—Montreal-style smoked meat, in lean, medium, or fatty permutations—is a Creekstone Farms brisket that Bernamoff aggressively seasons and cures, oak-smokes, steams, hand-slices, and layers tenderly on Orwasher’s rye. Also on offer: poutine, fried salami, and Stumptown coffee (97A Hoyt St., nr. Atlantic Ave., Boerum Hill; 718-852-7510).


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